Hidalgo's British bounty

It is early morning on a Friday in July, and a rainy fog is lifting to reveal a chilly, tentative sun over Real del Monte, Hidalgo-at 2,800 meters the highest village in Mexico. A stocky, red-bearded man, whose bulky red and gold uniform is reminiscent of the Beefeater guards, swings a deafening hand-held copper bell.

Image:Susana Seijas

Cornish town crier Alan Jewel at work.

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Gillian Dawe, talks about what the Cornish folk, who came to work the mines in Pachuca, left behind. View Video >>

"Oyez! Oyez! Oyez!" roars Alan Jewell, the official Town Crier of Redruth, Cornwall, England. One hundred or so Mexicans and Britons pile into buses headed for El Panteón de los Ingleses, Real del Monte's brick-walled British cemetery, high above the mountaintop village.

The town is home to one of Mexico's most enduring ethnic cross-pollinations. Beginning in 1824, a hundred copper miners from Cornwall -- the toe shape sticking off the southwest of Great Britain -- came to Mexico and headed for the hills in search of silver. Today, hundreds of their descendants remain. The miners' influence is obvious in other ways: not just in Mexico's love of fútbol - unknown there until the Cornish arrived - but also in architecture. Up in the hills around Pachuca, many houses feature distinctly British characteristics: thicker walls, square windows, pitched roofs.

Mexico's remaining Cornish community represents a largely forgotten immigrant story. "In the early 1800s, miners in Cornwall were hard up and were seeking to make their fortunes in gold and silver mining in Latin America," says Gillian Dawe, whose ancestor William Dawe was a mine captain who came here in the 1840s. "They were like today's young Western engineers who go to oilrich countries in the Middle East."

Dawe - whose great-grandfather, Frank Rule, was known in Pachuca as the Silver King - visited Mexico in July, one of twenty-eight British guests who came to re-trace their ancestors' footsteps from Mocambo, adjoining the port city of Veracruz, all the way to Pachuca and nearby Real del Monte.

Ships carrying 125 passengers and some 1,500 tons of equipment sailed out of Falmouth, Cornwall in early April 1825, landing in Veracruz three months later. The treacherous 300-mile trek inland killed about half of the miners and their family members, many succumbing to malaria and yellow fever. Those who made it settled in Pachuca and Real del Monte.

The immigrants brought technology, notably the famous high-pressure steam pumping engines designed by Cornish engineer Richard Trevithick, which turned many of the area's water-logged mines into huge silver producers. The miners also brought Methodism, the mining lamp, and the legendary Cornish pasty, a small pie stuffed with meat or vegetables. Today the local pastes are stuffed with chiles and mole and sold on every corner in the area.

Richard Williams, a Cornish mining engineer who founded the Cornish-Mexican Cultural Society, works at building educational links between the two countries. He and British Society member Bridget Galsworthy Estavillo organized the delegation's visit to Mexico.

The sloping cemetery, restored by the British Society in Mexico City, is the tidy, pine-covered resting place of 750 Cornish people and their descendants who lived in or near Real del Monte.

Roger Clotworthy, 70, is one of those gathered outside the cemetery in the foggy mid-morning gloom. Clotworthy, of Helston, Cornwall, sits with Doris Jenkin, 80, a Cornish woman born in Mexico - cousins who are meeting for just the second time in their lives. Their grandfather, Philip Rogers, worked in
Mina Dolores, Pachuca. Roger's father went back to Cornwall, but Jenkin's parents, first-generation Cornish Mexicans, decided to stay.

"This was a very moving ceremony, because I can remember my grandmother singing ‘Abide With Me' all those years ago," says Jenkin, a Mexico City resident, recalling the hymn featured at the event. British Ambassador Giles Paxman is in attendance, as is Inocencio Hernández, the elderly villager who has looked after the graveyard for more than forty years. "Harold Pengelly [Pachuca's onetime British consul, born in Real del Monte] told me to take care of this graveyard, which I've done by sweeping and digging," says Hernandez, whom everyone calls Don Chencho. "It was terrible at times, keeping the vandals and the drunks out."

Don Chencho's decades of toil, gradually rescuing the cemetery from a daunting state of neglect, have been recognized with an Order of the British Empire (OBE), the first given to a resident of Hidalgo. It was awarded to him in 2006 by Queen Elizabeth II on the recommendation of Ambassador Paxman for "services around the world to the United Kingdom and British settlers wherever they went."

Today, Don Chencho has his medal pinned to his blue blazer. "He would wear the medal to bed, if he could," says Maria del Carmen Hernandez, Don Chencho's beaming daughter.

As Cornish visitors and locals browse through the cemetery tracking down family gravestones, one visitor, Harold Pengelly's nephew William John Dunstan, spends a quiet moment standing at the grave of his aunt, Frances Dunstan Pengelly.

A tall, thin man sporting a tan suit and a short, ash-brown beard, Dunstan last visited Pachuca at age 10, when his uncle was the consul. "We were told that when Uncle Harold died they took his coffin underground to the mine as a sign of respect before burying him," Dunstan says quietly.

"It is hard to say what it is like coming back here," says Dunstan. "Emotion. I feel emotional about my uncle Harold Pengelly. Pleased I came back."

Susana Seijas can be reached by email at susana.seijas@gmail.com.

For more information on the Cornish-Mexican Cultural Society: cornish-mexico.org.

 

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