Mineral de Pozos: ghost town rising

Four years ago, there was definitely something in the air in Mineral de Pozos.

Image:David Winslow

At the Posada de las Minas hotel, steps, arches, columns, and railings pile upon one another like a drawing by M.C. Escher

Nothing visible was happening in the dusty streets of this ghost town baking in the high plains of Guanajuato, a four hour drive north from Mexico City; but in its empty plazas had appeared newly painted signs, some in Spanish, some English.

With its abandoned mineshafts and clumps of ore glittering amid dusky century plants, the silent town bore an air of desolation that was just a little too picturesque to be true. Light-headed at 7,500 feet above sea level, I saw occasional tidy door plaques and newly-rebuilt walls.

The landscape of Pozos is gritty and gripping, with its two ruined mines. Los Cinco Señores is characterized by its watchtower and a surreal high wall crumbling in the distance, built to prevent landslides. Santa Brígida's landmark is three smokestacks and a cluster of buildings that include a white-and-terracotta hospital and heat-cracked wind tunnels once used to stoke the furnace.

Any travel writer could hear the town screaming with potential but, despite rumors of plans for investment from FONATUR the answer was an inconclusive shrug.

***

On this recent visit I stayed in the elegant Posada de las Minas hotel and talked with all and sundry—the newest gringo in town who came for breakfast every day to have his eggs done just-so, the heavily pregnant waitress who skipped around like a 12-year-old, a gang of grand dames from Texas, a painter, a messenger, a photographer, a sports coach building a house.

It was the rainy season and the formerly baked yellow stone had a translucent pink sheen, in rich contrast with the foliage. Our suite, richly decorated with colorful folk art, sported heavy leather armchairs on a balcony overlooking the dome of a distant church.

What has re-lit Pozos’ fire? The spark didn't come from any federal or local government sources, but from loving and responsible investment, much from outsiders from the southern US. As has been the case in the development of many of Mexico’s well-established inland treasures, foreign fascination with the place, unselfish dedication to its aesthetics, and contribution to its community are bringing about positive development and a transformation in how the townsfolk see themselves and their home.

 

Barbara, I thought that this article is a very welcome edition to those on Pozos. We live in Pozos half time as warmer than North Carolina in the winter and cooler in the summer. I think that we are now up to about 20 expat residents full time, another 30 expats with houses that are there part time and maybe 30 more that own land but haven't built.

Since you have clearly been there more than once, what would be great would be a follow-up article on the local people and what they are doing to upgrade the town. For instance the ejido is very active in both enhancing the total town through such things as donating land for a free woman's and children's clinic to reopening a long closed nursery to initially plant organic tomatoes and now expand into other vegetables.

Also, we now have two new restaurants opened by Mexican families that have "expat" level menus. I put the latter in quotes both because I cringe at the difference but also because some 80% of the tourists in Pozos are from other parts of Mexico.

What amazes me more than the continuing growth of the expat community is how the total town is emerging through investment by the local community. Almost everyday as I walk or ride in Pozos, I see a new structure emerging.

We place high value on hiring locally – over 90% of our staff is local Shanghainese. Also, we have chosen a hotel site that is on a very local street (this is atypical of premium hotels in China as they are usually between a Louise Vinton and a Nike store on a commercial strip) – so we support the tea stand next door and the dumpling man around the corner by bringing in (and recommending) tourist traffic to local shops and businesses’.

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